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In developing a guide to Italian noodles, an acquaintance originally from Naples suggested planning lasagne as if it were architectural layout. The idea is to start by calculating the measurements of your baking dish relative to the pasta sheets, then choose the stacking arrangement to adequately balance the fillings. We also agreed that constructing a lasagne should combine the methodical approach of a stonemason with the expressive technique of a splatter artist when applying the sauces.

Preparing the Pasta Sheets

My personal lasagne dish is sized 30cm by 20cm, and approximately three standard-sized dried lasagne sheets form a one level. When making a multi-tiered lasagne, you’ll need approximately 15 sheets. Today’s common dried lasagne does not require pre-cooking, but those sheets depend heavily on a moist enough sauce to hydrate fully. Because this particular recipe uses a thick and rich sauce, we recommend briefly dip the sheets in boiling water for half a minute, then move them into a cool bath and lay them out on a tea towel to remove excess moisture. This method speeds up the oven time, which protects the tender quality of the summer squash and fresh cheese layer.

Flexible Cheese Options

Considering the current cost of cheese—and also what you may have in your refrigerator—this recipe offers a range of portions for the fresh cheese, aged cheese and or melting cheese. Feel free to substitute other types according to what you have on hand, and adjust with generous seasoning and herbs. What truly enhances the taste, however, is first sautéing the diced zucchini in olive oil with a some seasoning. Don’t worry about to overcook them—they will continue melting in the heat, merging with the creamy sauce and cheese which serves as a holding layer for the lasagne.

The Waiting Game

I firmly believe, lasagne is invariably better if you allow it to sit for a minimum of 20 mins before dishinig out—or even an hour in a slightly heated spot. This pause gives the ingredients to settle and the whole lasagne—particularly the melted cheese—to firm up. As a result, it divides easily into squares. Naturally, the remaining piece warmed up the following day is truly the best part.

Three-Cheese & Summer Squash Pasta Bake

Portions for 4-6

Around 15 lasagna noodles, sufficient to make 5 layers

Three tablespoons good-quality oil, and more for preparing the dish

Several summer squashes, cut into tiny pieces

Sea salt and pepper

14 ounces soft white cheese

A generous tablespoon finely chopped oregano

3 ounces unsalted butter, and more for scattering

2.5 ounces all-purpose flour

800ml full-fat milk

Fresh nutmeg

60-80g Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated

A wedge of semi-soft cheese, cubed chunks

Two tablespoons toasted crumbs

Instructions

Prepare the lasagne sheets as per the packet instructions; should you pre-cook them, place them on tea towels until needed.

Pour the olive oil in a frying pan over a steady burner, then sauté the chopped squash with a sprinkle of salt, stirring occasionally until they start to turn tender. Remember they will cook further in the bake, so remove from heat and let cool for 10 minutes. Add the ricotta, marjoram and another pinch of salt.

Warm the dairy butter in a pan, then add the white flour and stir to make a smooth mixture. Slowly whisk in the milk and keep heating, whisking continuously, until the bechamel reaches a creamy consistency. Flavor with salt and black pepper, a pinch of nutmeg and a tablespoon of the hard cheese.

Coat the bottom of an casserole with oil, add a thin layer of the white sauce, then arrange a bottom level of lasagna layers. Spread another level using one portion of the sauce, topped with a quarter of the squash mixture, a bit of the cubed cheese and a sprinkling of grated cheese. Repeat with another pasta sheet, then continue layering three more times, ending with a last sheet of pasta. Spread that with the rest of the sauce, the toasted crumbs and patsof butter, then place in oven at 390°F/moderate oven for about half an hour, or until the top is crisp and the crust is deeply colored.